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When curating a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary honour.